June Garden Jobs UK: Complete Food Growing Guide for British Gardeners

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June is the month British food growers have been working towards since February. The last frost risk has passed for most of the country, the soil is warm, the days are long, and the growing season is running at full pace. But June is not simply a month for sitting back and watching things grow — there is still a significant planting agenda, a long list of management jobs, and some crucial decisions to make about what to sow now to keep harvests coming right through to autumn.

This guide covers everything you need to know about what to plant in June in a UK garden, with UK variety recommendations, regional timing differences, pest management advice for midsummer, and a clear breakdown of the key growing jobs that will define the quality of your summer and autumn harvests. Whether you are working a full kitchen garden, a raised bed setup, or a collection of containers on a patio, June offers more opportunity than any other month to get food into the ground and start reaping rewards quickly.

What Vegetables to Sow and Plant in June

June marks a genuine transition in the UK vegetable garden. The hardy crops that dominated March and April are maturing or already harvested, and the warm-season crops you started under glass in April and May are now ready to move outside permanently. At the same time, there is still a meaningful direct sowing agenda — not just for summer harvests, but for crops that will carry you through autumn and into winter.

Direct Sowing Outdoors in June

The soil temperature in June across most of the UK sits comfortably between 14°C and 18°C, which is ideal for germination across a wide range of crops. There is no longer any need for pre-warming or cloche protection for most vegetables, though a light covering of fleece on exceptionally cold nights in Scotland and the north of England is still sensible in early June.

Beetroot remains one of the best crops to sow in June. Earlier sowings are already well established, and a June sowing gives you a succession crop that will be ready for harvest in September and October — exactly when those early sowings have been exhausted. Boltardy continues to be the most reliable UK variety for any sowing after April, as its bolt resistance becomes less critical now that temperatures are more stable. Chioggia and Pablo are both worth growing for their visual appeal, and Cylindra produces long, cylindrical roots that are particularly useful for pickling. Sow at 2.5cm depth in rows 30cm apart, then thin to 10cm once seedlings are established.

French beans are a June staple and one of the fastest-maturing crops you can sow this month. They need no support, produce heavily over a long period, and are far easier to manage than runner beans in a small space. Blue Lake and The Prince are both excellent UK varieties — Blue Lake produces round pods while The Prince gives flatter, traditional pods. Sow 5cm deep with 15cm spacing between seeds and 45cm between rows. A June sowing will be producing from August through September.

Runner beans should be sown or planted out in June if you have not already done so. Direct sowings made in early June will establish quickly in warm soil and will catch up rapidly with transplants started indoors in May. Scarlet Emperor remains the UK grower’s choice for its reliability and flavour, while Enorma produces longer pods. Give them robust support — at least 2.4 metres — and pinch out the growing tips once they reach the top of the canes.

Courgettes can still be sown directly into warm soil in early June in all UK regions. If you started plants under glass in April, now is the time to plant them out — but if you missed that window, a direct June sowing will still produce well. Defender F1 is an RHS Award of Garden Merit variety that performs consistently in the variable British summer. Black Forest is worth growing if you want a climbing courgette for a small space. Allow 90cm between plants as they spread considerably.

Squash and pumpkins can be sown or planted out in June. Winter squash varieties such as Crown Prince and Uchiki Kuri need the full growing season to mature, so early June is really the last sensible planting window for these in most of the UK. Summer squash planted in June will crop by late August. Give all squash varieties a warm, sheltered spot and plenty of organic matter dug into the planting hole.

Salad leaves are one of June’s most rewarding quick crops. Cut-and-come-again mixes, Little Gem lettuce, rocket, and spinach can all be sown in succession throughout June. In June, the main risk with salad is bolting in hot weather rather than cold snaps — so choose bolt-resistant varieties and consider sowing in semi-shaded positions or on the cooler side of taller crops. Tom Thumb and Webb’s Wonderful are two reliable UK lettuce varieties for summer sowing.

Radish is the fastest crop in the June garden, capable of going from seed to table in under four weeks. Use them to fill gaps between slower-maturing crops — they are excellent as a catch crop between rows of brassicas or carrots. Cherry Belle and French Breakfast are both well-suited to June sowing, but sow small quantities every two weeks rather than a large batch all at once to avoid a glut.

Pak choi and oriental leaves thrive in June’s warmth and produce quickly. Sow direct and thin to 20cm spacings. June-sown oriental leaves are typically ready within six to eight weeks.

Florence fennel can be sown in June for an autumn harvest. It’s a crop that tends to bolt badly if sown too early in cold conditions, so June is actually a better sowing month than May for most UK regions. Romanesco is the most widely available UK variety. Sow at 30cm spacing and keep well watered — fennel drops in growth rate immediately if the soil dries out.

Planting Out Young Plants in June

June is the month when all your indoor sowing work from April and May pays off. Soil temperatures are now consistently warm enough for tender crops, and the risk of frost has passed for virtually all of the UK — though growers in the Scottish Highlands and elevated northern areas should still keep an eye on the forecast for the first two weeks of the month.

Tomatoes should be planted out in June if you have not already done so. Outdoor varieties need a sheltered, south-facing position — against a wall or fence is ideal. Gardener’s Delight, Sungold, and Ailsa Craig are all well-proven outdoor varieties for the UK climate. Plant deeply — burying the stem up to the first set of leaves encourages additional root development. Cordon varieties need regular side-shooting and staking; bush varieties need no pinching but do benefit from some support as they carry fruit. If growing in containers, pot size matters enormously — a minimum of 30 litres per plant.

Cucumbers (ridge varieties) can be planted outside in June. There is a persistent myth that cucumbers need a greenhouse in the UK — ridge cucumbers such as Marketmore and Masterpiece are specifically bred for outdoor growing and will produce well in most British summers given a warm, sheltered spot. Plant them with 45cm spacing and provide some support for the trailing stems if you want to save space.

Sweetcorn must be planted in blocks rather than rows to ensure wind pollination. June transplants from indoor April sowings are ideal — plant in a grid pattern at 45cm spacing and earth up the stems slightly as they grow to improve stability. Swift and Lark are two UK varieties known to perform well in shorter British summers. Direct sow in early June in the south of England if you haven’t started any under cover.

Outdoor peppers and aubergines can be planted in June in a sheltered, south-facing position in the south of England and the Midlands. In Scotland and the north of England, these crops will only reliably succeed in a greenhouse or polytunnel. If you are growing outdoors, choose early-maturing varieties — Gypsy F1 for peppers and Moneymaker for aubergines — and protect with a cloche or fleece if cool nights are forecast.

Celery and celeriac can be planted out in June into well-prepared ground with plenty of organic matter. Both need consistently moist, rich soil and will struggle in dry conditions. Self-blanching celery varieties are the most practical for home growers as they don’t require earthing up. Golden Self Blanching is a reliable UK variety. Plant celery in blocks with 25-30cm spacing so the plants naturally blanch each other.

Artichokes (both globe and Jerusalem) raised from seed or offsets can go out in June. Globe artichokes are perennial and will reward you for years — plant them in a permanent position with good soil and full sun. Green Globe is the most common UK variety.

Sowing for Autumn and Winter Harvests

Some of June’s most important sowings are not for summer crops at all — they are the strategic sowings that will keep your garden productive right through to winter. This is the aspect of June planting that separates experienced kitchen gardeners from those who are simply reacting to the season.

Winter brassicas — including Brussels sprouts, winter cabbage, purple sprouting broccoli, and kale — should be sown in June for an autumn and winter harvest. Brussels sprouts sown in June will be ready from October onwards; purple sprouting broccoli sown now will produce in late winter and early spring, filling the notorious “hungry gap.” RHS-recommended varieties include Nautic F1 for Brussels sprouts and Red Arrow for purple sprouting broccoli. Sow in a seedbed or modules, then transplant in July and August once seedlings reach 10-15cm.

Calabrese (the conventional green broccoli sold in supermarkets, distinct from purple sprouting broccoli) can still be sown in June for a September harvest. Marathon F1 is a vigorous UK variety. Sow direct and thin to 30cm spacings.

Kale is one of June’s most valuable sowings for the months ahead. It is virtually indestructible, will stand through the hardest British winter, and provides nutritious greens from October to April. Nero di Toscana (cavolo nero) is worth growing for its flavour and visual appeal, while Dwarf Green Curled is more compact and suitable for smaller beds. Sow in modules or a seedbed and transplant in July.

Leeks should be transplanted from seedbed into their final growing positions in June if you sowed them in March or April. The classic method is to make holes 15-20cm deep with a dibber, drop a seedling into each hole, and water in without backfilling — this naturally blanches the stems as they grow. Musselburgh remains the most widely grown hardy UK variety. Autumn Giant 2 and Bandit are good modern alternatives with strong disease resistance.

Spring onions can be sown throughout June for an autumn harvest. White Lisbon is the standard UK variety — fast-maturing and reliable. Sow thinly in shallow drills and harvest as needed rather than all at once.

Turnips sown in June will be ready in eight to ten weeks. They are underrated as a summer-to-autumn crop and particularly good if you have space to fill after early potato or broad bean harvests. Milan Purple Top and Snowball are both quick-maturing UK varieties.

Regional Timing Guide for June in the UK

June’s growing conditions vary considerably across the UK, and understanding these regional differences will help you time your plantings correctly.

Southern England and the South West: By early June, all tender crops can go outside without protection. Soil temperatures are consistently warm, and the risk of late frosts has passed. This is the most permissive region for June planting — you can direct sow or plant out any of the crops listed above from the very start of the month. If you’re growing in the South West, you may even find that some crops bolt more quickly in hot, dry spells and need careful management with shade cloth or extra watering.

The Midlands and East Anglia: Conditions are close to southern England by mid-June, though the first two weeks of the month can still see cool nights in exposed areas. Tender crops planted in early June should be protected with cloches for the first week or two as a precaution. Sweetcorn benefits from being started under cover rather than direct sown in this region, as the growing season is slightly shorter than the south.

Northern England and Wales: The first two weeks of June carry a low but non-zero risk of ground frost in low-lying or elevated areas. Tender crops should be hardened off carefully and planted out no earlier than the second week of June. The growing season is shorter here — prioritise early-maturing varieties, particularly for tomatoes, sweetcorn, and squash, which need the most heat to produce a worthwhile harvest.

Scotland: In the Highlands and elevated areas, late frosts can occur well into June. In the Central Belt and coastal areas, conditions are more comparable to northern England by mid-June. In the Highlands, tender crops are best kept under glass for most of June, with planting out only in the warmest, most sheltered spots from late June onwards. In lowland Scotland, planting out by the second week of June is generally safe but should be done with fleece on standby. All variety recommendations for short seasons apply — choose the fastest-maturing options available.

What Fruit to Plant and Tend in June

June is less about new fruit planting and more about managing and establishing crops that were planted earlier. However, there are still some important planting and propagation tasks that are specific to this month.

Strawberries are June’s most prominent fruit task. If you want to propagate new plants for next year — which every strawberry grower should — June is when runners begin appearing in earnest. Peg down strong runners with a wire pin or small stone into a pot of compost placed beside the parent plant. Once the plantlet has rooted (four to six weeks), sever the runner and you have a free, healthy new plant that will fruit next year. Cambridge Favourite and Elsanta are the most widely grown UK varieties; Marshmello is worth growing for its exceptional flavour.

If you want to buy new strawberry plants to expand your bed, cold-stored runners become available in June and July from UK suppliers including DT Brown and Suttons. These can be planted directly and will fruit within a few weeks of planting — unlike autumn-planted runners which don’t fruit until the following year.

Gooseberries and currants (blackcurrants, redcurrants, and whitecurrants) are fruiting or approaching their harvest window in June. Net them before the fruit fully ripens to protect from birds — blackbirds in particular will strip a redcurrant bush overnight. Feed with a high-potash liquid feed to support fruit development.

Blueberries in containers should be kept well watered in June as fruit is swelling. Blueberries need ericaceous (acidic) compost and should be watered with rainwater where possible — tap water in many UK areas is alkaline and will raise the pH of the compost over time. If your plants are showing yellowing leaves despite good watering, the compost pH may have drifted — repot with fresh ericaceous compost and add sulphur chips to acidify further.

Raspberries — summer-fruiting varieties — are approaching or beginning their harvest window in June. Keep the canes well watered and supported. Remove any new canes from the base that are crowding the fruiting canes — these first-year canes will carry next year’s crop, so don’t remove all of them, but thin to the strongest five or six per plant. Autumn-fruiting varieties are still growing their first-year canes and need minimal attention beyond watering.

Fruit trees in June are going through the natural “June drop,” where the tree sheds excess fruitlets to concentrate its energy on the remaining crop. This can look alarming but is entirely normal and beneficial — do not try to prevent it. After the drop has finished, you can thin remaining fruitlets by hand if the crop is still very heavy. Dessert apples should be thinned to one fruit per cluster at 10-15cm spacing for the best-sized harvest.

What Herbs to Sow and Plant in June

The herb garden in June is at its most productive, but there is still value in sowing and planting to extend the harvest and ensure a supply of fresh herbs right through the year.

Basil is June’s signature herb planting. It is genuinely frost-tender and should not go outside until night temperatures are reliably above 10°C — which in most of the UK means June is the first truly safe outdoor planting time. Sweet Genovese is the classic variety for UK kitchen gardens; Purple Ruffles adds ornamental value; Thai basil has a more complex anise flavour. Plant in the warmest, most sheltered spot available, protect from slugs (which are strongly attracted to basil), and pinch out flowering shoots regularly to keep the plants producing leaves.

Coriander can be sown in June, but choose a bolt-resistant variety such as Cilantro or Calypso as standard coriander will bolt rapidly in warm conditions. Sow in dappled shade rather than full sun to slow bolting further. Alternatively, embrace the whole plant — coriander seed is as useful in the kitchen as the leaves.

Dill sown in June will be ready to harvest within six to eight weeks. It makes an excellent companion plant for brassicas, deterring aphids and attracting beneficial insects. Fernleaf is a compact dill variety suited to smaller spaces. Companion planting with herbs like dill can make a real difference to pest pressure across the whole kitchen garden.

Chives, parsley, and mint can all be sown in June, though they will take longer to reach harvestable size than spring sowings. Parsley in particular is slow to germinate — soak seeds overnight before sowing to improve germination rates. If you want harvestable chives and parsley quickly, buy plug plants rather than starting from seed now.

Fennel (herb) — distinct from Florence fennel, the vegetable — can be sown in June and is particularly useful as an insect habitat. The flat flower heads attract hoverflies, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that will control aphid populations elsewhere in the garden. Bronze fennel is more ornamental than the green variety and equally useful. If you’re developing a wildlife-friendly kitchen garden, adding fennel to the herb bed is a simple and effective measure — see our guide on eco-friendly garden ideas for more on creating gardens that work with nature.

Replanting short-term herbs: Cress and chives, which you’ve been cutting heavily since spring, can be replanted in June to ensure a fresh supply through summer. Rather than continuing to harvest the same plants, which become less productive over time, start fresh plants and give the originals a chance to rest and recover.

Essential Garden Jobs for June

June is the month when the “jobs list” overtakes the “planting list” in sheer volume. Most of the plants are now established and growing rapidly, which means there is a corresponding amount of management work to keep pace with.

Watering and Feeding

Regular, deep watering is the most important June job, particularly for crops growing in containers and raised beds. Shallow, frequent watering encourages roots to stay near the surface where they are vulnerable to drought and temperature fluctuation — deep watering once or twice a week encourages roots to grow downward, creating more drought-resistant plants. A 30-litre container in full sun may need watering daily in warm weather; check by pushing a finger 5cm into the compost before watering.

Tomatoes need consistent moisture to prevent blossom end rot and fruit splitting. Once the first truss is visible, begin feeding with a high-potash liquid feed weekly — a proprietary tomato feed or homemade comfrey liquid are both effective. Irregular watering followed by heavy rain or irrigation is the most common cause of tomato fruit splitting in the UK.

Potatoes should be well earthed up by now, and container-grown potatoes in particular need attentive watering — the compost should remain moist but never waterlogged. Feed container potatoes with a balanced liquid fertiliser every two weeks from late May.

Pest Management in June

June sees a significant increase in pest pressure as populations build across a warm spring. Being observant and acting early saves far more time and crop loss than trying to manage established infestations.

Aphids — blackfly, greenfly, and woolly aphids — are at their peak in June. Check the growing tips of broad beans, the undersides of nasturtium leaves, and the soft growth of gooseberries and currants. Pinching out broad bean tips once in flower removes the most aphid-vulnerable growth and also speeds up pod development. For other crops, a strong jet of water from a hose will dislodge colonies without chemical intervention, as will encouraging natural predators such as ladybirds and lacewings.

Slugs and snails remain a persistent problem in June, particularly following rain. Newly planted tomatoes, courgettes, and basil are especially vulnerable. Beer traps, copper barriers around containers, and going out after dark with a torch and bucket are all effective non-chemical controls. Biological control — nematodes watered into moist soil — is particularly effective in June when soil temperatures are warm enough for the nematodes to be active. Our guide to protecting plants from slugs and snails covers all the main approaches in detail.

Carrot fly is a significant pest for June carrot sowings. The female fly locates carrots by scent at low height — she cannot fly higher than about 60cm — so surround carrot beds with a fine mesh barrier at least 60cm tall. Avoid thinning carrots in warm weather when possible, as disturbing the foliage releases the scent that attracts the fly. If thinning is necessary, do it in the evening and remove all thinnings from the bed immediately.

Cabbage white butterflies begin laying eggs in June on the underside of brassica leaves. Check plants weekly and remove any yellow egg clusters by hand. Fine mesh netting pulled tightly over brassica beds is the most reliable protection — gaps under the edges allow butterflies to access the plants. Cabbage root fly collars placed around the base of transplanted brassicas at planting time will protect roots from egg-laying.

Vine weevils are a significant pest for container-grown crops, particularly strawberries, herbs, and flowers. The adult beetles notch the edges of leaves, which is distinctive but relatively harmless; the larvae, which hatch in summer and eat roots through autumn and winter, are the real problem. In June, look for the characteristic notching on leaves as a sign that adults are present, and consider applying biological control nematodes in late summer to target larvae before they become established.

Blight — both early and late blight — can begin to appear on tomatoes and potatoes in June if conditions are humid. Good airflow around plants is the primary prevention strategy. Remove any lower leaves that are yellowing or showing brown patches. In a wet season, copper-based fungicide (the only organic option) applied preventatively is worth considering.

Tomato and Cucumber Management

Cordon (indeterminate) tomatoes need regular attention in June. Side shoots — the growth that appears in the angle between the main stem and a leaf truss — should be removed when they are small, before they waste energy or create crowding. Leave them too long and they become woody and harder to remove cleanly. Pinch or twist them off with clean hands or a sharp knife.

As each truss sets fruit, ensure the main stem is tied to its support — the weight of developing trusses can cause the stem to lean and eventually snap. Aim to leave four to six trusses on outdoor UK plants — beyond that, later trusses will not have time to ripen before the autumn chill arrives. By mid-July you should be removing the growing tip (“stopping”) of outdoor tomatoes to direct energy into ripening existing fruit.

Outdoor cucumber plants should have their growing tips pinched out at five or six leaves to encourage lateral (side shoot) growth, which is where most of the fruit develops.

Fruit Tree and Soft Fruit Jobs

Plums and cherries should be pruned in June rather than winter — these stone fruit species are susceptible to silver leaf disease, which enters through pruning wounds, and the disease cannot infect cuts made during the active summer growing period. Remove crossing branches, dead wood, and any growth that is congesting the canopy. Do not paint over cuts on stone fruit trees.

Strawberry beds need runners managed (see above), weeds removed, and straw tucked under the developing fruit to keep it clean and protect from soil splash. If plants are cropping heavily, support the fruiting stems with a small stick or purpose-made strawberry support to prevent them collapsing under the weight.

Gooseberry and currant bushes showing signs of leaf scorch or yellowing may be suffering from potassium deficiency, which is common on sandy soils. Feed with a high-potash fertiliser or wood ash worked into the soil around the roots.

Succession Sowing Strategy

One of the most valuable habits to develop in June is succession sowing — making small, frequent sowings of fast-growing crops rather than one large sowing that produces a glut followed by a gap. For salad leaves, radishes, spring onions, and beetroot, sow a short row or half a seed tray every two to three weeks throughout June and July, and you will have a continuous supply rather than a feast-or-famine pattern.

Keep a note — even just a pencil mark on a bit of cardboard in the greenhouse — of sowing dates so you know when to sow the next batch. Experienced kitchen gardeners schedule their succession sowings in advance rather than reacting when one batch runs out.

A Note on the June Growing Pace

There is a particular quality to the UK kitchen garden in June that is worth pausing to appreciate. The combination of long days, warm nights, and ample moisture means that growth rates are at their annual peak — crops planted in late May can be transformed within a fortnight, and the garden can feel almost visibly alive in a way that no other month matches.

This pace is also the source of June’s main challenge. Weeds grow just as fast as vegetables, and a week of neglect in June can see a bed go from clean to overwhelmed. Regular, brief weeding sessions — even fifteen minutes every two or three days — will prevent this from becoming a problem. Hoe between rows when the soil is dry, as a sharp Dutch hoe in dry conditions kills weeds efficiently without disturbing crop roots.

June is also the month to make decisions about what is not working and act on them quickly. A tomato plant that has not established after three weeks probably will not recover — replace it now rather than nursing it through July and getting no crop. A brassica that has bolted should come out immediately rather than staying in the ground and taking up space.

If you’re thinking about how the effort you put in now connects to the bigger picture of your kitchen garden productivity, our complete UK guide to growing your own vegetables sets out the principles that underpin a well-managed food garden year-round.

Quick Reference: What to Sow and Plant in June

Sow direct outdoors:

• Beetroot (succession sowing)
• French beans
• Runner beans (early June)
• Courgettes (early June)
• Squash and pumpkins (early June, last chance)
• Salad leaves (cut-and-come-again mixes)
• Rocket
• Radish
• Pak choi
• Florence fennel
• Spring onions
• Turnips
• Kale (for winter harvest)
• Calabrese

Sow in a seedbed or modules for transplanting:

• Brussels sprouts
• Winter cabbage
• Purple sprouting broccoli
• Kale

Plant out:

• Tomatoes
• Outdoor cucumbers (ridge varieties)
• Sweetcorn (in blocks)
• Courgettes and squash (from indoor sowings)
• Celery and celeriac
• Leeks (transplant from seedbed)
• Outdoor peppers (south only)
• Aubergines (south only, sheltered position)
• Basil

Fruit tasks:

• Peg down strawberry runners for propagation
• Buy cold-stored strawberry runners for immediate planting
• Net soft fruit against birds
• Thin fruitlets on fruit trees after June drop
• Prune plums and cherries (not in winter)
• Propagate gooseberries and currants from cuttings

Looking Ahead: May Into June, June Into July

June is the midpoint of the productive growing season, and understanding where it sits in the broader calendar helps you plan effectively. The crops you are harvesting now — salad, early peas, broad beans, and radishes — were sown in March and April. The crops you are planting now will define your July, August, September, and October harvests.

If you are catching up on any May tasks that were delayed, the May food growing guide will help you understand what should already be established and what can still be done. For those thinking ahead, the foods to plant in July guide covers the fast-succession summer sowings that keep the harvest going through late summer and into early autumn.

June is also the month to start thinking about the hungry gap — the period between January and April when fresh produce is hardest to come by. The winter brassicas and leeks you sow and plant this month are directly addressing that gap. Think of June not just as summer planting time but as the beginning of your winter larder strategy.

The combination of active summer harvests, fast succession crops, and long-term winter planning makes June the most strategically complex month in the UK kitchen garden calendar. Get it right, and the garden will reward you continuously for the next six months.

Continue Your Growing Season Journey

May Garden Jobs UK: Complete Food Growing Guide for British Gardeners — understand what should already be established and any May tasks you can still complete in early June.

What Foods to Plant in July — the succession sowings and summer management jobs that keep your harvest running through August and September.

Companion Planting UK: The Complete Guide to What to Plant Together — make your June planting work harder by pairing crops that support each other and deter pests naturally.

Protecting Plants from Slugs and Snails — everything you need to know about managing the UK’s most persistent garden pest, particularly relevant for June plantings.

Growing Tomatoes: Expert Tips for Your Best Harvest Ever — the definitive guide to getting the most from your outdoor and greenhouse tomatoes through summer.

Grow Your Own Blueberries: Homegrown Fruit With Less Effort — everything on growing this slightly fussy but rewarding fruit, including the June care tasks that make the difference.

How to Grow Broad Beans: Everything You Need to Know — if your June broad beans are coming to the end of their harvest, this guide covers when to clear the crop and what to do with the ground next.

The Complete UK Guide to Growing Your Own Vegetables — the overarching resource for year-round kitchen garden planning, including how June fits into the full growing year.

What are you most looking forward to harvesting in June? Whether it’s the first outdoor tomato of the year, a glut of courgettes, or the satisfaction of a well-managed succession of salad leaves, let us know what’s growing in your garden in the comments below.

Want a monthly reminder of what to sow and plant in your UK garden? Join our community of British food gardeners and stay ahead of the season all year long.